Manaslu and Tsum Valley Trek - 18 Days

We trek from Soti Khola to Machha Khola today encountering with the majestic mountain ranges and unspoiled culture. Soti Khola to Machha Khola trek distance is 14.1 kilometers / 8.7 miles. Sotikhola village situated at an altitude 730 meters Machhakhola at an elevation of 930 meters above sea level. It takes 6 to 7 hours to get to Machha Khola altitude from Soti Khola via Armala, Lapubesi, Nauli khola, Khanibesi steeply uphill along Bhuri Gandaki River. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

We trek from Soti Khola to Machha Khola today encountering with the majestic mountain ranges and unspoiled culture. Soti Khola to Machha Khola trek distance is 14.1 kilometers / 8.7 miles. Sotikhola village situated at an altitude 730 meters Machhakhola at an elevation of 930 meters above sea level. It takes 6 to 7 hours to get to Machha Khola altitude from Soti Khola via Armala, Lapubesi, Nauli khola, Khanibesi steeply uphill along Bhuri Gandaki River. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Climb above a ridge and cross the Buri Gandaki on a new suspension bridge, circle under cliffs and climb a little to Doban (1070m; Dovan) where there is the Himalayan lodge, alternative place to stay if we skip Tatopani. Shyaule Bhatti lodge is 40mins later then 20mins to Manaslu Santi and Thulodhunga (‘big rock’) lodges where you can take tea and look at the wild gorges ahead. After a landslip and Yaruphant (1140m) cross the bridge across the Yaru Khola (1363m) and emerge onto riverflats at Yaru (1140m) for lunch at the Sandbar Hotel. Look downstream at the massive rockfall that chokes the river. Just past Yaru, cross to the true right bank and enjoy easy up and down to Jagat (1410m), a neatly flagstoned Gurung village where jagat (‘tax’) is collected on Tibetan trade. You will need to show your MCAP permit at an office on the left. In this area, potato, maize and climbing beans are all planted at the same time – the potato for food and to suppress weeds, the maize for food and to supply a trellis for the beans, which are an important source of protein. Marijuana is a major weed problem in season. Walk up the riverbed then climb over a rocky ridge to Salleri (1440m) with views of Sringi Himal (7187m), then descend to Sirdibas (1430m; Setibas, Tara). You’ll see your first signs of Buddhist culture here. Look out for rakshi spirit being distilled from millet beer in roadside kettles on this day. Continue up-river on the left bank, up and down before crossing Nepal’s longest suspension bridge to the east bank and a tiring climb up to prosperous Philim (1590m; Dodang) surrounded by rich fields of maize, potato and millet. There are shops and grocery. After lunch break at Phillim or at Chisapani, we further hike to Lokla today. Overnight in Lokpa. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Traverse north out of Philim on the obvious track signposted to the Larkya La, through some pretty forest with views up the narrowing valley. After 1hr climbing enter the increasingly misnamed Ekle Bhatti (1600m; ‘lone teashop’) with at least six bhatti and newly built lodge now, then traverse high above a spectacular gorge, entering a largely uninhabited area of pine trees. Eventually drop to a trail junction going left to Ghap and right to the Tsum Valley, just above Gum Pul (‘bridge’). Climb on a well-graded but exposed track through pines and rhododendrons, looking down on the other trail across the river. If the slopes here have recently had their annual burn there is a real risk of stonefall from the cliffs above, especially if there are goats grazing. Climb on zigzag steps, increasingly exposed, and gain your first glimpses of the narrow lower Tsum Valley, very steep across the Siyar Khola (Shiar Khola) which drains from the very top of the valley. Across the Buri Gandaki is Himalchuli (7893m) above steep cliffs. Walk through a largely intact and peaceful temperate forest into Lokpa (2240m; Lakuwa), surrounded by barley fields with two lodges and extensive camping terraces and a huge stock of Chinese alcohol. Descend through beautiful forest, crossing two new bridges, circle under a huge bluff on the river then climb steeply on deteriorating exposed stairs. After about 30mins start to traverse north through pines and rhododendrons, still climbing and with very steep slopes. The hidden valley of Tsum stretches enticingly ahead. Eventually descend to a deserted bhatti Ghumlong (2130m) on the river. The path straight ahead climbs steeply to Ripchet (2470m; Ripche) in about 1hr; the path to Chumling (2360m) crosses the Siyar Khola on a wooden bridge and up. It is not for those afraid of heights – several locals have fallen to their death from this track while drunk. After about 30mins, below Chumling, take the level track to right (east) for 15mins to arrive at a lodge with 6-8 beds. Make sure you climb up to Chumling and check out the old gompa, the traditional houses, orchards, clinic and beautiful stone streets. This is Buddhist agriculture, with conical pine needle haystacks among the prayer flags. From here on trails are lined with artistic chortens and mani walls made of thousands of stone slabs carved with deities and prayers.Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

An easier day after yesterday. Cross the suspension bridge just east of the hotel and traverse through rich farming land of maize and potatoes. The houses are classic Tibetan with barricades of firewood on the roof, but without flat roofs as it rains and snows here. Cross a huge slip where rocks and flood cleared the area even up onto the opposite bank, killing five in 1999, but is now covered with a forest of new trees. Up the valley to the east are superb views of several of the 7000-7400m Ganesh Himal, of long suspension bridges on the opposite bank, and far above the perched village of Ripchet (2468m). Your guide may find somebody willing to cook lunch at Rainjam (2400m), a single bhatti with enclosed courtyard. Cross the Serpu Khola and climb for over 2hrs on well-graded but exposed track to upper Tsum and the joined villages of Chhokang-Paro (3010m), stone houses with a few iron roofs nestled under cliffs. The valley opens here into spacious fields of barley, maize, buckwheat and potato, but wheat has been abandoned due to ‘hill bunt’, a disease which turns the heads black and causes total crop failure. Herds of thar often graze the wild cliffs to the north, coming right down to the fields. The Tashi Delek lodge has some 18-bed rooms. If the air is clear Himalchuli (7893m) can be seen down valley.Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Most people can climb to 3000m without getting altitude sickness, but the altitude gain in these track notes above Chhokangparo is right at the 300m per day suggested for safety. Watch for signs of altitude sickness and be prepared to rest or retreat if they emerge. Take time to explore the village and climb north to a retreat where Lama Kongchog died after 26 years of meditation. His child reincarnation, found in the village, was subject of the award-winning DVD Unmistaken Child (available in Kathmandu). There are often sighted near here. The friendly people speak Tsumba, related to Tibetan, but often little Nepali and are quite unused to visitors. Head east through small villages and past a local school, climb over a ridge of chortens and past Lamagaon (3202m) through the flat fields, looking across the extensive crops and river to the huge courtyard of the Rachen Gompa (3240m) with excellent pilgrim accommodation. You can pay Rs 300 and get a key for a visit to Milarepa’s Cave (Piren Phu), where the bringer of Buddhism to Tibet is reputed to have meditated. Cross the Shiyar Khola, pass through hamlets of Phurbe (3251m) and Pangdun (3258m) and pass an unusual round stupa before reaching the larger village of Chhule (3347m) through an impressive entrance gate (kani). There is one homestay in Chhule, turn right above the bridge. The children here all wear the Tibetan dressing gown called chubas and there are many yaks. Head upstream to cross the bridge and climb to Nile (3361m; Nyile, pronounced Nee-lay). Both villages are in traditional style with inclusion of livestock compounds into the houses and sheltered verandahs for drying crops. Lobsang Homestay now provides room can be sheltered for some 20 trekkers..Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

We will leave our bags in hotel behind and visit Mu Gompa as a day trip, we also visit the isolated Dhephu Doma nunnery. Make up valley on the west bank, enjoying sunrise on the narrowing valley walls and yaks being put to pasture. The final climb up to the large Mu Gompa (3700m; Mugumba) is through dry Tibetan country, with rows of chortens and widening mountain vistas. This is a large monastery with over 100 monks and an ancient gompa visited by David Snellgrove (Himalayan Pilgrimage) in 1956. They provide basis accommodation and daal bhat for visitor. Try tsampa (roasted barley flour) for breakfast with tea or even Tibetan butter salt tea. On three sides now are tantalizing views of the border with Tibet, with frequently used passes to the east (Ngula Dhojyang or Mailatasachin Pass, 5093m) and west (Thapla Bhanjyang, 5104m) just out of sight. Some people climb to Kalung (3820m) or Bhajyo (4030m) and camp, making a daytrip to the passes for a view into Tibet. Mingma Lama (enquire in Nile) can organise accommodation and/or horses if you want to do this. It takes about 4hrs to climb to the pass from Bhajyo and 3hrs down. From Mu Gompa there are extensive seasonal yak pastures in all directions, the Lungdang Glacier to the east and high peaks in all directions. In the early monsoon, in pastures at 5000m, many Tsumba collect the most expensive natural medicine in the world, known as yarsagumba. This is the caterpillar of a ghost moth parasitized by a fungus Cordyceps sinensis and is worth USD 25,000/kg in China as an aphrodisiac and cancer cure. The isolated 600 year-old Dhephu Doma Gompa (3900m) is 30-45mins uphill on the obvious westward track and has two resident nuns who report seeing snow leopards and musk deer and may give you tea. The inside of the gompa has been repainted by monks from Tibet and there is some ancient thankas. We trek back to Chhekamro via Rachen Gompa after Mu Gompa excursion. Overnight in Chhekamparo. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

This can be a taxing day so start early. Descend to Domje, where there are no lodges or bhatti, by the upward track. Cross the Laudang Khola on a new swing bridge between the two lowest houses in Domje and stay on the south (true left) bank of the Siyar Khola (contrary to the map). Traverse 10 mins on a new trail through lovely forest until a choice of upper or lower trails – either works, the lower is best. Cross some very deep gorges on new swing bridges to picturesque Ripchet (2470m; Ripche) where there is a home stay and you can get lunch if you ask around. Take time to look around at this perched fertile valley of barley and buckwheat with evocative chortens in the fields backed by pine forest. Descend on steep loose stairs to the deserted bhatti Ghumlong (2130m) on the river, which you passed through some days ago. Climb again through the pristine temperature forest to Lokpa (2240m), enjoy a comfortable bed in the lodge there and maybe a bucket bath in the toilet or camping toilet. Overnight in Lokpa. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Continue from Lokpa down the exposed track until the track from Philim comes in from the left. Turn right, cross the Buri Gandaki on a solid bridge after about 1hr and traverse to a welcome bhatti just around the corner for tea and a last look up the Tsum Valley. Enter a very narrow gorge with loose tracks, up and down, up and down. Cross through bamboo forests to Deng (1800m), inhabited by Gurungs who practice Buddhism. Lodging at Manaslu Trekker Home (10 rooms, Shangri-La. Just beyond Deng recross to the east bank and climb to Rana (1980m) and pass Bihi Phedi (1990m, Himal and Manaslu hotels) with the trail up to the stone-carving village of Bihi (2130m; Bhi). The river roars below. Continue in and out of continuous wild canyons, with a village perched in every conceivable cropping situation, cross the Serang Khola coming from the north and climb steeply again before finally circling into Ghap (2160m; Tsak) past Mountain View lodge where the horses stay, Budhi Gandaki Lodge. The mani walls here and onwards as far as Bimthang often display intricate quality carvings of various Buddhas in meditation, incised in the hard local stone by a family of carvers from Bihi. The Manaslu Thakuri lodge and Kyimolung lodge and camping ground are in Ghap itself and building is underway. A side-trip from a bridge below Bihi can take you up to Prok (2380m), with an ACAP office and emergency radio and an excursion to Kal Tal (3685m; Kalchhuman Lake), then back down to Ghap. There are two lodges in Prok and those who visit really enjoy the experience, including a lake 1200m higher for which a local guide is advised. Overnight in Ghap. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Enter a beautiful forest of fir and rhododendron with many birds, staying on the south bank, cross north on a bridge with a roaring narrow canyon below then cross back to the south bank on a new swing bridge with grey langurs watching. The main trail now climbs on well-made stairs, but a highly recommended narrow shortcut to the right just after the bridge and along the riverbank is far quicker and through superb pine forest. After about 1hr, climb a zigzag from the river to the neat village of Namrung (2660m) with shops, restaurants and the Thakali, Thakuri and Namrung lodges about the flagstoned square. While waiting for a meal it is worth wandering around the village, where carvings from Bihi have been painted in colors above a gateway. The architecture characteristic of upper Nupri starts here: several houses gathered together about a common courtyard and livestock shelters on the ground floor, with heavy wooden shingle roofs and log stairs to dark verandahs. Pass mani walls, fields and houses through Banjam (2800m, Banzam) with Nubri Trekkers Inn. Enter the fir, rhododendron and oak forest before climbing to Lihi (2900m; Li, Ligaon) with the Lihi Hotel in 1hr, then onto Sho (2950m, Syogoan) where there is a bhatti but no lodges yet. The platforms in the fields are where people keep overnight watches to chase bears from their crops. Most people from here onwards wear traditional Tibetan dress, with the children in small chubas like dressing gowns, asking for shim shim (Tibetan for candy). Some have impeccable English due to an Australian aid project. There are some particularly fine paintings in the kani (gate arches) that you pass before Sho. Shrip (3000m) boasts the Nupri Eco-hotel. A leisurely walk onwards, in and out of gullies to Lho (3180m) with Tashi Delek lodge, Lho Majesty Cottage Lodge. Pity about the wedding-cake stupa donated from Taiwan which dominates this otherwise picturesque village focused on yak herding. There are excellent views of Manaslu (8163m) and Manaslu North (7157m) from the mani wall at the far end of the village and from the gompa on the hill to the west. Overnight in Lho. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Today; it is a short day of 2-3 hours walk takes you into the mountains with time to enjoy and acclimatize. The views of Manaslu are stupendous. Easy walk to Shyala (3520m, Syal, Syalagaon, Shyaula) up a pine and rhododendron gully with moss and gin-clear stream. Enjoy 360° views from here due to a fire and extensive deforestation and extensive building including the lodges on the trek under construction, currently Manaslu Pik 21 Hotel and Gurkha Manaslu Homestay. Another easy hour to the large village of Sama (3520m, Samagaon, Ro), losing the gigantic views of Manaslu but entering a world of yaks, pastures and houses which seem to have grown from the stones. Only potatoes and barley can be grown at this altitude. There are several lodge in Samagaon. Overnight in Sama. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Rest days to get physically acclimatized. We can spend the day exploring surroundings such as, Birendra Taal (lake), Buddhist monasteries, Samagaun, a big Tibetan cultured community and a side trip to Pun Gyen Gompa or Manaslu Base Camp but this both side trips requires almost a full day for each. We will see a marvelous view of Manaslu. Day-long acclimatization trips can be taken from here to Pungyen Gompa or to Manaslu Base Camp (4900m) An afternoon walk to the Kargyu Chholing Gompa and Birendra Lake is recommended. Stay overnight at same place. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Another short day because of the altitude, with time to go via the iceberg-covered Birendra Tal (3450m) under the Manaslu Glacier, wade the exit stream depending on the time of year and drop down to pick up the main trail from Sama to Samdo. Easy walking through yak pastures up a broad valley with long mani walls, marmots in April but not November standing on their burrows. Finally leave the tree line behind, although low-lying juniper is all around, climb to a ridge and drop to cross the Buri Gandaki on a wooden bridge. It takes some time to reach the white kani above but immediately behind is Samdo (3860m), a very picturesque village dedicated to yak herding, so much so that there are more animal and fodder shelters than human accommodation. Lodges are Chez Kyrang, Yak Lodge and Tibetan Twins, comfortable although likely to be cold at this altitude. Side valleys and Samdo Peak call out for afternoon wandering but take a jacket as cold wind can come up at any time. The Larkya La trail is ahead up valley and left. You can see the main track for Tibet over the Larjyang La (Lajyung Bhanjyang, 5098m) sloping up to the right from the Larkya La trail and you can make an excellent afternoon acclimatisation walk of 4-5hrs return to 4500m up this trail, seeing lots of blue sheep and yaks and entrancing views, but the pass itself is a full day trip. The first village and road in Tibet is about 2hrs beyond the pass with access currently blocked by China even for locals. There is a lot of Chinese and Tibetan alcohol and food for sale in Samdo. Overnight in Samdo. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Walk beyond Samdo on a broad trail, dropping to cross the much-reduced Budhi Gandaki at 3850m. Leave the trail to Tibet to the right and climb left after a mani wall, traversing through juniper with many marmots in April but not November when they hibernate. Cross two ravines on narrow tracks, very icy towards winter. There is no Larke Bazar despite what many maps assert; at one time traders from Namche Bazar came through Tibet to trade in this area and maybe some of the scattered stone shelters you will pass were part of that market. Dharamsala (4460m; Larke Phedi, Larkya Resthouse) is now a seasonal place with dark stone rooms and tents for at least 50 people and a dirt-floored but efficient dining hut. Even toilets are available. In 2012 this entire place opened 1 October and closed for winter on 24 November, so check in Samdo before counting on staying here. The camping area is filthy with toilet trenches, rubbish and blowing toilet paper so be careful where you get your water and boil it well if camping. The views are marvellous. A large herd of blue sheep call the tussock-covered hills home and we saw snow leopard prints in fresh snow around the toilets.. Overnight in Dharmasaala. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Note that if snow has fallen overnight and there have been high winds, then there may be less snow as you climb making the pass still crossable. Climb steadily over the ridge behind Dharamsala and beside the large lateral moraine of the Larke Glacier. The climb is not difficult but it is long and rocky underfoot, particularly as you top the moraine. Look for cairns and metal snow poles which assist route finding. Descend past four frozen lakes and make a final tiring climb to the left up to Larkya La also spelled Larke La (5160 m), marked by prayer flags. It takes about 3-5hrs to reach the pass and it can be very cold and windy with a risk of exposure if under-equipped or ill. The peaks to the west are Himlung (7126m) near Tibet and Kang Guru (6981m) and Annapurna II (7937m) in the Annapurna Range. Trek west on a high moraine ridge exposed to wind for some distance, on the right side of a deep gully, then drop steeply on loose scree, eventually traversing left on more steep scree. There are several places where snow or ice would make this treacherous and some groups fix a rope on the steepest piece. Make a long descent on loose gravel to a welcome more level area with grassy moraine, where the angle eases. The track now runs left of the large lateral moraine, rocky at times, in a widening and beautiful valley all the long way to very scenic Bimthang (3720m; ‘plain of sand’), a descent of 1400m in about 3hrs. The views during the descent are huge – icefalls and mountains in all directions, a medial glacial lake (Pongkar Tal) between the Pongkar and Salpudanda Glaciers, and the joining of these two glaciers with a third glacier to form the Bhimdang Glacier whose lateral moraine towers over Bimthang. Overnight in Bimthang. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Walk south below Bimthang behind the moraine wall for some time before crossing the Bhimdang Glacier, which can be loose underfoot. Climb up the far moraine wall quickly to avoid stone-fall and enter some of the best forest in Nepal. If you are in rhododendron season, the mauves, reds, pinks and whites are stunning amongst the huge pines and the views of the back of Mt Manaslu are superb. Descend rapidly along the true right bank of the aptly named Dudh (‘milk’) Khola through a bhatti at Hompuk (3420m) in a forest clearing. Gentle riverside walking continues rapidly to Karche (2700m; Kharche, Surki Khola, Suti Khola) for lunch after about 3.5hrs. This would be a great place to spend a night, with Saat Kanya Hotel or Himalayan Cottage cottage. In the next hour you will see many signs of a glacial flood, with tree trunks smashed and banks undermined, the track becoming quite rough. Climb steeply over a ridge and drop to Gurung Goa (2560m, Gho), the first real village since Samdo. There are new lodges here, lunch if continuing. The valley becomes more agricultural as you pass fields and copses of oak and rhododendron, staying on the north (true right) bank until Tilche (2300m). Overnight in Tilche. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

After our breakfast we will catch a local jeep or bus get a bus to Beshisahar and connecting local hiace van drive to Kathmandu. This is will be a long day drive. Considering to extend a night and stay overnight in Besi Sahar allows you to travel relaxingly to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel in Kathmandu. It will be a long day drive.