Manaslu Circuit Trek - 13 Days

Machha Khola to Jagattrek starts after crossing the suspension bridge built over Machha Khola. Now there is roadbuilding work going on. We can enjoy the view of the Buri Gandaki Valley via the suspension bridges, tiny hamlets, terraced fields, and waterfalls. After walking for 5-6 hours, we finally reach the village of Jagat, where we will spend the night. 

Today we hike to Jagat from Machha Khola, the distance is some 13 miles. It takes 5 to 6 hrs to get to Jagat from Machha Khola, going through the Gurung villages of Khorlabesi, Tatopani, Dobhan, Yaru Khola along the Budigandaki valley. Jagat village is situated at an elevation of 1340 meters above sea level. Overnight stay in a trekking lodge. 

After staying at Jagat for the night; our journey starts to Deng; also spelled “Dyang”. The trail begins to climb a rocky ridge where views of Sringi Himal (7,187m) appear. We keep on through beautiful terraced fields of maize, potato and millet before entering the Nupri (‘the Western Mountains) via bamboo forests. We spend the night in the Buddhist village of Deng for overnight stay. 

Continue track from Philim the villages of Ekle Bhatti comes. Turn left cross the Buri Gandaki on a solid bridge after about 1hr and traverse to a welcome bhatti just around the corner for tea and a last look up the Tsum Valley. Trek through bamboo forests to Deng (1860m), inhabited by Gurungs who practice Buddhism. Lodging at Manaslu Trekker Home and Shangri-La. Just beyond Deng re-cross to the east bank and climb to Rana (1980m) and pass Bihi Phedi (1990m, Himal and Manaslu hotels) with the trail up to the stone-carving village of Bihi (2130m; Bhi). The river roars below. Continue in and out of continuous wild canyons, with a village perched in every conceivable cropping situation, cross the Serang Khola coming from the north and climb steeply again before finally circling into Ghap (2340m; Tsak) past Mountain View lodge where the horses stay, Budhi Gandaki Lodge. The mani walls here and onwards as far as Bimthang often display intricate quality carvings of various Buddhas in meditation, incised in the hard local stone by a family of carvers from Bihi. The Manaslu Thakuri lodge and Kyimolung lodge and camping ground are in Ghap itself and building is underway. A side-trip from a bridge below Bihi can take you up to Prok (2380m), and an excursion to Kal Tal (3685m; Kalchhuman Lake), then back down to Ghap. Two lodges are reported in Prok and those who visit really enjoy the experience, including a lake 1200m higher for which a local guide is advised. We still continue to Namrung, a beautiful village nestled at the elevation of 2630m.

Enter a beautiful forest of fir and rhododendron with many birds, staying on the south bank, cross north on a wooden bridge with a roaring narrow canyon below then cross back to the south bank on a new swing bridge with grey langurs watching. The main trail now climbs on well-made stairs, but a highly recommended narrow shortcut to the right just after the bridge and along the riverbank is far quicker and through superb pine forest. After about 1hr, climb a zigzag from the river to the neat village of Namrung (2660m) with shops, restaurants and the Thakali, Thakuri and Namrung lodges about the flagstoned square. While waiting for a meal it is worth wandering around the village, where carvings from Bihi have been painted in colours above a gateway. The architecture characteristic of upper Nupri starts here: several houses gathered together about a common courtyard and livestock shelters on the ground floor, with heavy wooden shingle roofs and log stairs to dark verandahs. Pass mani walls, fields and houses through Banjam (2800m, Banzam) with Nubri Trekkers Inn. Enter the fir, rhododendron and oak forest before climbing to Lihi (2900m; Li, Ligaon) with the Lihi Hotel in 1hr, then onto Sho (2950m, Syogoan) where there is a bhatti but no lodges yet. The platforms in the fields are where people keep overnight watches to chase bears from their crops. Most people from here onwards wear traditional Tibetan dress, with the children in small chubas like dressing gowns, asking for shim shim (Tibetan for candy). Some have impeccable English due to an Australian aid project. There are some particularly fine paintings in the kani (gate arches) that you pass before Sho. Shrip (3000m) boasts the Nupri Eco-hotel. A leisurely walk onwards, in and out of gullies to Lho (3180m; Logoan) with the large Tashi Delek lodge and Majestic Guest House. Pity about the wedding-cake stupa donated from Taiwan which dominates this otherwise picturesque village focused on yak herding. There are excellent views of Manaslu (8163m) and Manaslu North (7157m) from the mani wall at the far end of the village and from the gompa on the hill to the west. The views of Manaslu are stupendous still continue walk to Shyala (3520m, Shyalagaon, up a pine and rhododendron gully with moss and gin-clear stream. Enjoy 360° views from here due to a fire and extensive deforestation and extensive building including the largest lodge on the trek under construction, currently Manaslu Pik 21 Hotel and Gurkha Manaslu Homestay. Another easy hour to the large village of Sama (3520m, Samagaon, Ro), losing the gigantic views of Manaslu but entering a world of yaks, pastures and houses which seem to have grown from the stones. Only potatoes and barley can be grown at this altitude.

Rest days to get physically acclimatized. We can spend the day exploring surroundings such as, Birendra Taal (lake), Buddhist monasteries, Samagaun, a big Tibetan cultured community and a side trip to Pun Gyen Gompa or Manaslu Base Camp but this both side trips requires almost a full day for each. We will see a marvelous view of Manaslu. Stay overnight at same place.

Another short day because of the altitude, with time to go via the iceberg-covered Birendra Tal (3450m) under the Manaslu Glacier, wade the exit stream depending on the time of year and drop down to pick up the main trail from Sama to Samdo. Easy walking through yak pastures up a broad valley with long mani walls, marmots in April but not November standing on their burrows. Finally leave the tree line behind, although low-lying juniper is all around, climbing to a ridge and drop to cross the Budhi Gandaki on a wooden bridge. It takes some time to reach the white Kani above but immediately behind is Samdo (3860m), a very picturesque village dedicated to yak herding, so much so that there are more animal and fodder shelters than human accommodation. Lodges are Chez Kyrang, Yak Lodge, Tibetan Twins, comfortable although likely to be cold at this altitude. Side valleys and Samdo Peak call out for afternoon wandering but take a jacket as cold wind can come up at any time. The Larkya La trail is ahead up valley and left. You can see the main track for Tibet over the Larjyang La (Lajyung Bhanjyang, 5098m) sloping up to the right from the Larkya La trail and you can make an excellent afternoon acclimatization walk of 4-5hrs return to 4500m up this trail, seeing lots of blue sheep and yaks and entrancing views, but the pass itself is a full day trip. The first village and road in Tibet is about 2hrs beyond the pass with access currently blocked by China even for locals. There is a lot of Chinese and Tibetan alcohol and food for sale in Samdo.

Descend beyond Samdo on a broad trail, dropping to cross the much-reduced Budhi Gandaki at 3850m. Pass the trail to Tibet to the right and climb left after a mani wall, traversing through juniper with many marmots in April but not November when they hibernate. Cross two ravines on narrow tracks, very icy towards winter. There is no Larke Bazar despite what many maps assert; at one time traders from Namche Bazar came through Tibet to trade in this area and maybe some of the scattered stone shelters you will pass were part of that market. Dharamsala (4460m; Larke Phedi, Larkya Resthouse) is now a seasonal village with dark stone rooms and tents for at least 50 people, and a dirt-floored but efficient dining hut. Even toilets are available. In 2012 this entire place opened 1 October and closed for winter on 24 November, so check in Samdo before counting on staying here. The camping area is filthy with toilet trenches, rubbish and blowing toilet paper so be careful where you get your water and boil it well if camping. The views are marvelous. A large herd of blue sheep call the tussock-covered hills home and we saw snow leopard prints in fresh snow around the toilets. 

Note that if snow has fallen overnight and there have been high winds, then there may be less snow as you climb making the pass still crossable. Climb steadily over the ridge behind Dharamsala and beside the large lateral moraine of the Larke Glacier. The climb is not difficult but it is long and rocky underfoot, particularly as you top the moraine. Look for cairns and metal snowpoles which assist route finding. Descend past four frozen lakes and make a final tiring climb to the left up to Larkya La (5160m), marked by prayer flags. It takes about 3-5hrs to reach the pass and it can be very cold and windy with a risk of exposure if under-equipped or ill. The peaks to the west are Himlung (7126m) near Tibet and Kang Guru (6981m) and Annapurna II (7937m) in the Annapurna Range. Trek west on a high moraine ridge exposed to wind for some distance, on the right side of a deep gully, then drop steeply on loose scree, eventually traversing left on more steep scree. There are several places where snow or ice would make this treacherous and some groups fix a rope on the steepest piece. Make a long descent on loose gravel to a welcome more level area with grassy moraine, where the angle eases. The track now runs left of the large lateral moraine, rocky at times, in a widening and beautiful valley all the long way to very scenic Bimthang (3720m; ‘plain of sand’), a descent of 1400m in about 3hrs. The views during the descent are huge – icefalls and mountains in all directions, a medial glacial lake (Pongkar Tal) between the Pongkar and Salpudanda Glaciers, and the joining of these two glaciers with a third glacier to form the Bhimdang Glacier whose lateral moraine towers over Bimthang. The new chalet-style Hotel Ponkar Mountain is the first lodge. 

Walk south below Bimthang behind the moraine wall for some time before crossing the Bhimdang Glacier, which can be loose underfoot. Climb up the far moraine wall quickly to avoid stone-fall and enter some of the best forest in Nepal. If you are in rhododendron season, the mauves, reds, pinks and whites are stunning amongst the huge pines and the views of the back of Mt Manaslu are superb. Descend rapidly along the true right bank of the aptly named Dudh (‘milk’) Khola through a bhatti at Hompuk (3420m) in a forest clearing. Gentle riverside walking continues rapidly to Karche (2700m; Karache, Surki Khola, Suti Khola) for lunch after about 3.5hrs. This would be a great place to spend a night, with Saat Kanya Hotel or Himalayan Cottage chalets owned by the same Bimthang man. In the next hour you will see many signs of a glacial flood, with tree trunks smashed and banks undermined, the track becoming quite rough. Climb steeply over a ridge and drop to Gurung Goa (2560m, Gho), the first real village since Samdo. There are many new lodges now, continuing further down one hour to Tilche for overnight stay.

After morning breakfast, we drive to Besishahar in a 4WD public jeep. It will be a 50 km drive on an unpaved road, rough and challenging, which will take some 5 hours. We stay at Besishahar. Enjoy a hot shower after a long hike and several nights in basic lodges without a proper hot bath. Enjoy and celebration your last day of the trek.  

After our breakfast at Beshisahar, we take a comfortable bus ride to Kathmandu. This will be some 5 hours drive to Kathmandu. It is possible to transfer to Pokhara if you would like to end the at there. Farewell friend!.