Jomolhari Trek in Bhutan

A thrilling and enlightening day tour to this wonderful country of Bhutan. The gorgeous valley of Paro is really charming, being a location for various farming works, including commercial quantities of asparagus, strawberries and shitake mushrooms for sell abroad, and different grain and vegetable crops. All of the slopes closed by the valley are wooded and the hint of mountains beyond is appealing. Our morning is used up discovering around and appreciating Taktsang Monastery also known as Tigers Nest Monastery, as it is everyone must visit in Bhutan, a short drive from our accommodation. It takes us about 1.5 hours to walk up the winding trail steeply through chir pine forest to a tea house and excellent vantage point. Another 30 minutes or so takes us to the monastery. The monastery is the heavenly resting place of the Guru Rinpoche, revered as the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. This evening you will need to repack, leaving behind things you will not require on the trek for safe storage.

Some 25 minutes drive to Drukyel Dzong, which was initially built as a fortress in 1647 to protect against Tibetans invading the Paro Valley then go on the drive to Shana from where our trek begin. On this scenic drive we pass throughout farm country made up of fields of rice, wheat, barley, mustard, potato, and radish as well as herds of cows. The traditional Bhutanese two storey, timber and stone houses can be seen here. We also gain our first views of the summit of Jomolhari (7314m) at the head of the valley. We get under way and take a break for lunch where it suits us, as we are carrying a packed lunch. Initially the trail is wide and flat, as it meanders steadily through lightly forested fields, which in recent years have been the site of the ongoing large-scale Bhutan Government project to bring electricity to the isolated villages further up the valley. It is a reasonable day's walk today, our first day's trek, taking us past.

Now we enter Jigme Dorje National Park, the largest guarded area in the country (4350 sq kms.) which expands further than Laya to Lunana in the east and all the territory to the south. Whilst it is a protected wilderness, the park management which is based at Gasa, has to cope with the needs of lowland farmers and semi-nomadic yak herders. There is an amazing variety of species of plants and animals in the park at both high and low altitudes. The forests are tall and thick, comprising a variety of oaks, maple, birch, larch pine, rhododendron and pines etc. There are numerous different varieties of the former, and depending on the onset of warmer temperatures after winter, flowers will be in bloom, or past bloom, as the lower altitudes flower earliest. As we climb higher the rhododendron species change from the common rhododendron arboreum (Nepal's national flower) to griffithianum and cinnabarinum. Many of the camps we stop at are not settlements as might be implied by them having a place name. Most are merely clearings beside a water source, which are also suitable camping sites for seasonal yak herders and workers who are involved in the large scale electrification project that will bring electricity to this region of Bhutan.

Keep going the adventure trek higher to the base camp of Mt. Jomolhari, a great alpine setting. Jichu Drake (6794m) towers to our right, with a fine, elegant ridge running down toward the pass that we will cross on our next trekking day. We camp in the vicinity of yak herders from the Paro Valley, who, like their counterparts in Southern Tibet, live in woven yak wool tents throughout the summer months. By now we are above the tree line and the area is characterized by low tundra of juniper and rhododendron setosum, while blue sheep have also been spotted in the higher rocky outcrops.

As acclimatization is very impotent considering altitude problem; we have rest day today; a side trip up the small valley towards Jomolhari takes us to a dramatic viewpoint towards the glacier and imposing face of this 7000m mountain. Alternatively we may make a scenic excursion up to Sopu lake set adjacent to Nye La pass, both will be worthy photo excursions. As far as mountaineering is concerned, these two peaks, like the rest of Bhutan, have seen little expedition activity from outsiders. Doug Scott successfully climbed Jichu Drake in 1988 on his third attempt, demonstrating that conditions are not so easy on this far east location of the Himalaya being first in line geographically for monsoonal influences.

Venture the trek ascending over rolling hills of grassland and small brush to the Nyile La (4850 meters). This is a comparatively long day on the track, so if this is your first Himalayan pass just take your time, mainly on the final steeper stages just below the pass, where grasses give way to scree and sand. The views enroute to Jichu Drake will inspire you. From the Nyile La we leave Jomolhari and Jichu Drake behind and make a steep descent through dwarf rhododendron shrub towards Lingshi village. In the distance we can soon see the Lingshi Dzong, built to protect this and the other outlying villages of Bhutan from the periodic raids from Tibet. Before we reach the village and the Dzong, we turn off descending to cross a stream, there is a short stiff climb and then a descent into the quiet valley and camp by a stream.

It is a most difficult day  today; so an early start is essential. We begin our walk and ascend gradually through the valley until the stiff climb to Yale La pass at 4950 metres the highest point of the trip. The final push to the top of the pass is hard work, but certainly worthwhile! The panoramic view of Jomolhari (7314m), Jichu Drake (6794m) and Tshrim Gang is breathtaking. After the pass it is a long descent to our camp at Shodu (3950m).

The path follows the Thimchu River descending through rhododendron, Juniper and pine forests. The view of the cliff facing rocks and water falls are stunning. The trail gradually ascends after 3 to 4 hours to the ruins of Barshong Dzong and our camp for the night.

The trail goes down for a while until reaching the Thimchu River and steady up going and descending through thick bamboo and pine forests. We walk for about 2 hours to reach our old campsite at Domshesha before continuing for another 3-4 hours to Dolam Kencho and the road head. Transfer to Thimphu. Pending arrival time, we may visit the Tashichho Dzong, on the time of arrival; we may visit Thimphu Dzong in the afternoon. Any baggage left in Paro on day 2 will be brought and be available at the hotel in Thimphu.

A sufficient time to get a feel for the country's capital or do some shopping in the bazaar. The main Secretariat building, the Tashichho Dzong is the most prominent building consisting of the main Secretariat, the National Assembly Hall, the Office of the King and the Throne Room. Its remarkable construction is in traditional Bhutanese style completed without the use of nails or metal of any kind. There is a large Stupa dedicated to the late King HM. Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, regarded as the founder of modern day Bhutan. Then there is the Handicraft Emporium with famous weaving, woodcarvings and paintings and also the Post Office - Bhutan's exquisite stamps are world-renowned. 

Jomolhari trek concludes after breakfast with a transfer to the airport. Farewell friend